Theth and Valbona sit on opposite sides of the same range, the Albanian Alps in the far north. A footpath crosses the pass between them, which is why most people end up seeing both. What is not obvious before you go is that the two valleys are reached in completely different ways, and that the choice of which to enter first shapes the whole trip.
Theth: the road in
Theth lies about 70 km from Shkodër, and the drive takes roughly two hours on asphalt over the Thore Pass. That matters: it means Theth can be reached and left by car on the same day, which is why the day trips from Tirana and Shkodër go there rather than to Valbona.
The valley itself is small and walkable. The church with its lock-in tower stands in the middle of the village, the Grunas waterfall is a short walk away, and the Blue Eye of Theth is further down the valley at Nderlysaj — thirty minutes by car from the village, then forty-five minutes on foot up a track and a path. The water in that pool sits at 10 °C all year, which is worth knowing before you plan a swim.
Valbona: the lake, then the road
Valbona is east of Theth, above Bajram Curri, and there is no short way in. The usual route is the Komani Lake ferry to Fierza, then about an hour by road. The alternative is to drive from Shkodër via Puka, which takes about four hours. Either way, Valbona is a place you sleep in rather than visit and leave, and one night is the practical minimum.
That is the real difference between the two valleys. Theth can be a day. Valbona is at least an overnight, and the journey to it — the boat through the gorge — is half the reason to go.
The pass between them
The footpath over the pass is what joins the two, and walking it in either direction is the classic route in these mountains. It is a mountain crossing, not a stroll, and it is the reason the multi-day itineraries exist at all.
So which first?
If you are coming from Tirana or Shkodër with a car and limited time, Theth first is the simpler start: shorter road, asphalt, and a valley you can see properly in a day.
If the boat on Komani Lake is part of why you came — and for many people it is — then entering through Valbona makes more sense, because the ferry is on the way in rather than a detour. You then walk over the pass to Theth and leave by the Shkodër road.
When
Theth is open from May to October. Valbona's window is shorter, June to September, and so is the Blue Eye of Theth's. The Komani Lake ferry does not run in winter, which closes the Valbona approach entirely for part of the year.
